| There are two answers to that question, the first | | | | a time, allowing the nitrogen cycle to catch up |
| covers what you need when you first set up an | | | | each time. Test the water every couple of days |
| aquarium and the second covers what to so once | | | | while you are adding fish and carry out a partial |
| the tank is set up. | | | | water change (up to 30%) if there is an |
| Whether it is a new or established tank what you | | | | Ammonia or Nitrite spike. |
| are trying to do is maintain the water quality at a | | | | This cycling process can take several weeks and |
| level which is best for your fish so the first thing | | | | you cannot tell which stage you are at without |
| to do is understand the sort of conditions that | | | | testing the water. It is essential to test the water |
| your chosen fish prefer. All fish will live happiest | | | | quality of your freshwater fish tank throughout |
| between certain water parameters and this varies | | | | the nitrogen cycle. |
| with each type of fish. | | | | So the three test kits that you definitely need |
| In a new tank you need to be able to identify | | | | simply to monitor the nitrogen cycle are |
| when the nitrogen cycle has taken effect, in | | | | Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate. The fourth that you |
| other words when your tank has cycled and it is | | | | need is pH to test the acidity of the tank. |
| safe to start adding fish.. The biological filter is not | | | | Whenever you are introducing fish you need to |
| yet established so any fish waste or undigested | | | | make sure that there isn't too big a difference |
| food would simply lead to an Ammonia Spike. This | | | | between the pH level in your tank and the pH |
| is the first stage of the Nitrogen Cycle and can | | | | level of the tank that they came from. If there is, |
| be easily detected with an Ammonia Test. | | | | you need to acclimatise the fish carefully to avoid |
| As bacteria start to breed you will see the | | | | shock and stress. |
| Ammonia Spike replaced by a nitrite spike as the | | | | Once your tank has matured, the testing slows |
| Ammonia is converted to nitrite by the first set | | | | down. You still need to test your water regularly |
| of friendly bacteria, Nitrosomonas. This is stage | | | | and make a note of the results so that you are |
| two of the Nitrogen Cycle and can be tested for | | | | aware of any changes before they have the |
| with a nitrite test | | | | chance to turn into problems. Make it part of your |
| As the tank finishes its cycle you will see the | | | | routine to test the water before you carry out |
| Nitrite spike replaced by a Nitrate spike as the | | | | your regular water changes, and definitely if your |
| Nitrospira bacteria start to breed and feed on the | | | | fish are acting differently. |
| nitrites converting them to less harmful Nitrates. | | | | One of the biggest problems in a mature tank is |
| This is the third and final stage of the Nitrogen | | | | nitrate. Yes, it's far less dangerous than ammonia |
| Cycle which will show up through a Nitrate Test. | | | | and nitrite, but the trouble with nitrate is that it |
| Both Ammonia and Nitrite are harmful to fish so it | | | | often begins to rise over time. Your planting and |
| is only when nitrite levels have fallen back to their | | | | regular water changes will go a long way towards |
| original levels that it is safe to start adding fish | | | | dealing with nitrate but it is still worth monitoring |
| Make sure that you add the fish slowly, a few at | | | | on a monthly basis. |